Chorey-lès-Beaune

Chorey-lès-Beaune, an under-the-radar appellation worth discovering

While the Burgundy wine region abounds with prestigious names and highly sought-after wines—to the point that some bottles are very difficult to come by and often command a high price—there are still a few more low-key appellations that are well worth exploring. Chorey-lès-Beaune, an appellation located—as its name suggests—on the Côte de Beaune, is one of them. Whether red or, more rarely, white, it brings out the best in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

An unusual situation

Although viticulture in the town of Chorey-lès-Beaune—as in the entire vineyard region stretching across the Côte d’Or—has a long history, it did not receive its own AOC classification until 1970. The town has only 134 hectares of vineyards, which were severely affected by phylloxera and then downy mildew in the early 20th century. Until 1970, grapes grown in Chorey-lès-Beaune were therefore sold under the appellations of neighboring villages. However, the granting of AOC status marked the recognition of a distinctive terroir, with its own personality, and an atypical location. Indeed, while the vast majority of vineyard plots (called “climats”) in the Côte d’Or are planted on hillsides, in Chorey-lès-Beaune, most of the vineyards are found on the plain. This partly explains the absence of “climats” classified as Grand Cru or Premier Cru, the appellation’s highest tiers. These tiers are reserved for “climats” that combine exceptional terroir, optimal exposure, and the ability to drain rainwater effectively… The wines of Chorey-lès-Beaune, for their part, are labeled—depending on the specific climat—as either Burgundy or the municipal appellation Chorey-lès-Beaune. The limited vineyard area means these wines “don’t flood the market.” Less prestige and modest production volumes explain the appellation’s relative obscurity. But this obscurity and the unique nature of its exposure are fast becoming assets. The price range remains very reasonable, and the minimal sun exposure results in well-balanced wines that allow both Pinot Noir (more than 90% of the wines produced) and Chardonnay to express themselves fully.

Wines that are smooth, elegant, and rich

The soils of the Chorey-lès-Beaune appellation are predominantly clay-limestone, with marl-limestone alluvial deposits and a sandy subsoil. As for red wines, Chorey-lès-Beaune produces Pinot Noirs that are low in tannins and very fruit-forward. A long-standing criticism of the appellation was that it produced wines that were certainly pleasant but lacked persistence and had a limited aromatic profile. These criticisms are no longer valid. Strict yield control, a commitment to allowing the vines to age to achieve greater concentration, and the production of single-vineyard cuvées (grapes from a single “climat”) have all paid off. Now, when tasting a red Chorey-lès-Beaune, one discovers a wine with a light color and a subtle nose blending notes of blackcurrant and dried flowers, followed by a delicate, smooth palate that reveals crisp, juicy fruit. The few plots planted with Chardonnay have a higher concentration of limestone, though the soils remain fairly deep. The white Chorey-lès-Beaune wines have a pale gold color; the nose evokes honeysuckle, and on the palate, a very light minerality awakens the palate and lends the wines length. Notes of yellow fruit and hazelnut, combined with a fairly pronounced richness, make these wines mouthwatering; they are perfect both as an aperitif and with a meal, such as risotto or tabbouleh. In both red and white, these wines’ roundness and elegance make them particularly enjoyable as the warmer weather arrives.