Louis Jadot - Gevrey Chambertin 2017

The Gagey family’s involvement with this true gem of Burgundy’s historical heritage began upon the death of Louis-Auguste Jadot. With no heir, the estate was entrusted in 1962 to André Gagey, who remained its manager until 1991, when he handed the reins to his son Pierre-Henry, who now oversees the 225 hectares of vineyards. Since 2011, winemaking has been overseen by Frédéric Barnier, who has seamlessly succeeded Jacques Lardière, further improving the consistency and uniformity of all the vintages. The white wines are pneumatically pressed and fermented directly in barrels, where they are aged on the lees with periodic stirring for 12 to 20 months. The red wines are vinified with the stems removed but without crushing, without cold pre-fermentation, and undergo a vatting period of 25 to 27 days before beginning their aging for 12 to 22 months in barrels, one-third of which are new.

Tasted from the bottle, Jadot’s 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Village (Maison Louis Jadot) presents itself beautifully, dancing in the glass with aromas of raspberry and blackcurrant intertwined with notes of candied bark, smoked meat, and loamy soil. Medium-bodied, supple, and enveloping, its succulent fruit core is supported by powdery tannins and lively acidity. As readers may recall, this cuvée is largely produced from purchased grapes, but it is vinified in-house by Barnier and his team.

This prestigious wine merchant is run with great efficiency by Pierre-Henry Gagey, who is deeply involved in Burgundy. The company boasts an exceptionally extensive range and a superb collection of terroirs, including the major Burgundian appellations. Frédéric Barnier, who has been in charge of winemaking since 2012, is gradually making his mark by refining the wines. Consistency is one of this house’s strengths. While the whites display lovely balance, the reds are austere and severe, with oak notes that dominate the fruit—and even hints of acetate that, this year, make it difficult to assess certain vintages. Let’s hope this is only temporary, as the company’s reputation is at stake.