Château de Meursault - Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 2020

Under the leadership of Olivier Halley, Stéphane Follin-Arbelet, and cellar master Emmanuel Escutenaire, this estate—which expanded to 65 hectares in 2018—has been undergoing a revolution in recent years in terms of its working methods and its interpretation of the nature of its terroirs. Thirty hectares are currently farmed organically, with the goal of converting the entire estate to organic farming within three years. Substantial investments made over the past three years in high-performance viticultural equipment have driven this progress. The white wines exhibit both a lively tension and a generous mouthfeel, even though 2018 may not be their best vintage. The reds—whose grapes are destemmed and optically sorted before undergoing low-temperature fermentation followed by 12 to 15 months of aging in barrels (25 to 40% new)—offer a succulent, full-bodied, and deep character, with the 2018s displaying real finesse. This represents an absolutely impressive progression in a remarkably short time for an estate of this size.

The estate cultivates 2.63 hectares of this vineyard, located at the foot of Mount Chagnot on the Monthelie side, which is also the appellation’s largest 1er cru (15.4 hectares). Ruby-red in color, with intense aromas of red currant and smoky notes, this 2020 vintage shows great promise for the future: full-bodied and silky on the palate at first, then firmly structured by firm tannins that invite patience.

The iconic Château de Meursault, a mecca for Burgundian tourism and wine folklore—where the famous Paulée is celebrated the day after the Hospices de Beaune auction—has changed hands many times: it belonged to the family of Pierre de Blancheton until the Revolution; then to the Serre family in the 19th century; ; the family of the Count de Moucheron; and the Boisseaux family (Patriarche estate) starting in 1973. In December 2012, another change took place: the Halley family purchased the estate. Today, it comprises 65 hectares of vineyards in the process of converting to organic farming. At the helm of the winery: Emmanuel Escutenaire.