William Fèvre - Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent Domaine 2019

Full-bodied, expansive on the palate, powerful and concentrated—a dense, flavorful, and spicy wine that reveals itself gradually, but is best enjoyed after some time in the bottle.

Didier Séguier, who has been in charge since the estate was acquired by Bouchard Père et Fils of Beaune nearly a quarter of a century ago, has significantly improved the quality of the wines since then. While the vineyard holdings are undoubtedly the finest in the entire Chablis region—both in Premier Crus and Grands Crus—it is the meticulous and rigorous work in the vineyard and in the cellar that allows the winemakers to extract the full essence of the minerality characteristic of Chablis’s Kimmeridgian limestone. These wines are often enjoyable when young but age impeccably over time.

Grown at just 34 hl/ha, the 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent is superb, unfolding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, crisp green orchard fruit, white peach, iodine, and pastry cream. Medium-bodied to full-bodied, silky and enveloping, with racy acidity and a long, iodine-scented finish, it is the most well-rounded Premier Cru in the lineup.

 

With a deep bouquet, the marl-rich soil lends density and minerality to Vaulorent. This intense, vigorous, and full-bodied wine—nearly on par with a Grand Cru—combines impressive breadth and structure with freshness.

Owned by the Henriot Group, this estate is the largest owner of Chablis grands crus, with more than fifteen hectares. Its vast vineyard and range of exceptional terroirs are brought to their fullest potential through meticulous management: tilling the soil, hand-harvesting at the optimal time, and regulating yields. Passionate about his vineyards, Didier Seguier, who has led the estate since 1998, produces pure, well-defined, and crisp Chablis wines, using organic methods (certification pending) and even biodynamic practices for the Premier Crus and Grands Crus. With the exception of the Petit Chablis, winemaking and aging are skillfully divided for each cuvée between barrels—never new—and stainless-steel tanks. Eschewing any distinctive “signature,” the style captivates through its respect for the terroir and the expression of minerality, which have been better preserved since the estate gradually switched the entire range to Diam’s corks between 2005 and 2010. The transition to organic farming is underway.

Aromas that are somewhat stony/mineral, with slight hints of herbs and citrus. The oak is very subtle and well-integrated; the creamy texture complements the stony flavor on the palate, although there are citrus notes on the attack. It also has a nice finish.

Another linear, tight-knit Premier Cru, with notes of lemon, apple, a hint of white pepper, and chalk. It is medium-bodied. Clean and linear. Ready to drink now.