William Fèvre - Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2022

Didier Séguier, who has been in charge since the estate was acquired by Bouchard Père et Fils of Beaune nearly a quarter of a century ago, has significantly improved the quality of the wines since then. While the vineyard holdings are undoubtedly the finest in the entire Chablis region—both in Premier Crus and Grands Crus—it is the meticulous and rigorous work in the vineyard and in the cellar that allows the winemakers to extract the full essence of the minerality characteristic of Chablis’s Kimmeridgian limestone. These wines are often enjoyable when young but age impeccably over time.

The typical aroma and freshness of Vaillons. Precise, yet with lovely body and good definition. A high-class Vaillons that will be enjoyable in its youth but also has aging potential. Fèvre owns 3.5 hectares, 50% of which are in Vaillons, with the remainder divided among Chatains, Roncière, and Melinots. The harvest takes place early.

 

Owned by the Henriot Group, this estate is the largest owner of Chablis grands crus, with more than fifteen hectares. Its vast vineyard and range of exceptional terroirs are brought to their fullest potential through meticulous management: tilling the soil, hand-harvesting at the optimal time, and regulating yields. Passionate about his vineyards, Didier Seguier, who has led the estate since 1998, produces pure, well-defined, and crisp Chablis wines, using organic methods (certification pending) and even biodynamic practices for the Premier Crus and Grands Crus. With the exception of the Petit Chablis, winemaking and aging are skillfully divided for each cuvée between barrels—never new—and stainless-steel tanks. Eschewing any distinctive “signature,” the style captivates through its respect for the terroir and the expression of minerality, which have been better preserved since the estate gradually switched the entire range to Diam’s corks between 2005 and 2010. The transition to organic farming is underway.

Tasting note. Aromas of herbs and citrus, with—once again—the distinctive stony minerality of Chablis. More intense and slightly riper on the palate than the Montmains. Deeper fruit. Round and more harmonious.

The 2022 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru was blended the previous week, a period during which most of the lees are retained. Often one of my favorite wines from William Fèvre, its captivating bouquet displays impressive intensity on the nose. The palate is well-balanced, with notes of lemon verbena and hints of pear, beautiful energy and charisma, and a lingering finish. This wine is already very promising.