William Fèvre - Chablis Domaine 2023

Didier Séguier, who has been in charge since the estate was acquired by Bouchard Père et Fils of Beaune nearly a quarter of a century ago, has significantly improved the quality of the wines since then. While the vineyard holdings are undoubtedly the finest in the entire Chablis region—both in Premier Crus and Grands Crus—it is the meticulous and rigorous work in the vineyard and in the cellar that allows the winemakers to extract the full essence of the minerality characteristic of Chablis’s Kimmeridgian limestone. These wines are often enjoyable when young but age impeccably over time.

A distinctive Chardonnay, where minerality—with notes of flint—is immediately apparent on the nose, complemented by citrus aromas. This profile is paired with flavors of yellow fruit on the palate, which is initially sunny and round, followed by a lively finish that brings us back to the terroir.

Crafted from a mosaic of exposures and elevations and made from old vines planted between 1969 and 1972, the 2023 Chablis Village offers aromas of pear, white flowers, and freshly baked bread. Medium- to full-bodied, generous, and charming, it is underpinned by ripe yet lively acidity and concludes with a long, briny finish. Harvested early to preserve its freshness, this is a very well-crafted Chablis Village. 2026–2038

 

More structured, the Chablis—a blend from fifty plots—serves as a benchmark for the winery: a full-bodied, taut wine with lovely minerality, enhanced by a subtle hint of varietal character.

Owned by the Henriot Group, this estate is the largest owner of Chablis grands crus, with more than fifteen hectares. Its vast vineyard and range of exceptional terroirs are brought to their fullest potential through meticulous management: tilling the soil, hand-harvesting at the optimal time, and regulating yields. Passionate about his vineyards, Didier Seguier, who has led the estate since 1998, produces pure, well-defined, and crisp Chablis wines, using organic methods (certification pending) and even biodynamic practices for the Premier Crus and Grands Crus. With the exception of the Petit Chablis, winemaking and aging are skillfully divided for each cuvée between barrels—never new—and stainless-steel tanks. Eschewing any distinctive “signature,” the style captivates through its respect for the terroir and the expression of minerality, which have been better preserved since the estate gradually switched the entire range to Diam’s corks between 2005 and 2010. The transition to organic farming is underway.

A very fresh bouquet with notes of citrus and white-fleshed fruits, finishing with a subtle woody note and characterized by typical mineral notes.