William Fèvre - Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2023

Didier Séguier, who has been in charge since the estate was acquired by Bouchard Père et Fils of Beaune nearly a quarter of a century ago, has significantly improved the quality of the wines since then. While the vineyard holdings are undoubtedly the finest in the entire Chablis region—both in Premier Crus and Grands Crus—it is the meticulous and rigorous work in the vineyard and in the cellar that allows the winemakers to extract the full essence of the minerality characteristic of Chablis’s Kimmeridgian limestone. These wines are often enjoyable when young but age impeccably over time.

Under the guidance of winemaker Didier Séguier, the Montmains Premier Cru displays a certain initial reserve. But with time, notes of green apple and gooseberry, enhanced by a hint of acacia blossoms and spices, unfold on the palate. The texture is lively and fresh, yet the wine also has good body. The grapes come from 10 plots spread throughout Montmains, including some in Forêts and Butteaux. Didier Séguier explains that Butteaux is located at the bottom of the valley and farther from the Serein River, which allows the grapes to ripen later. The grapes are fermented in tanks, with 40 to 50 percent of the harvest aged in old barrels. 2030–2050

 

Owned by the Henriot Group, this estate is the largest owner of Chablis grands crus, with more than fifteen hectares. Its vast vineyard and range of exceptional terroirs are brought to their fullest potential through meticulous management: tilling the soil, hand-harvesting at the optimal time, and regulating yields. Passionate about his vineyards, Didier Seguier, who has led the estate since 1998, produces pure, well-defined, and crisp Chablis wines, using organic methods (certification pending) and even biodynamic practices for the Premier Crus and Grands Crus. With the exception of the Petit Chablis, winemaking and aging are skillfully divided for each cuvée between barrels—never new—and stainless-steel tanks. Eschewing any distinctive “signature,” the style captivates through its respect for the terroir and the expression of minerality, which have been better preserved since the estate gradually switched the entire range to Diam’s corks between 2005 and 2010. The transition to organic farming is underway.

Subtle on the nose. Soft, chalky texture. Give it a little time. But it has a remarkably long finish. 2030–2040